POET-LAB SS27

POET-LAB returned to London Fashion Week with REMEMBER, its SS27 collection exploring Albania, personal stories, and the memories shaping identity, emphasising its core themes and design inspiration to draw readers into its narrative.

Creative Director Giuseppe Iaciofano turned Brutalist buildings, concrete, and industrial surfaces into oversized tailoring, asymmetric dresses, and sculptural genderless shapes. Silver fringe, sheer lace, and touches of pink added movement to the strong architectural feel, while visible seams highlighted the construction.

The result felt bold, original, and unmistakably POET-LAB.

Inside POET-LAB’s Creative World

Founded in 2023, POET-LAB blends Milanese craftsmanship with London’s experimental style, emphasising identity, inclusivity, and dressing without strict gender rules, so everyone feels represented and welcome.

Check out the official POET-LAB website to learn more about the brand, its creative philosophy, and past collections.

The label has been developing this design language over several seasons. In it, I looked at how contrasting textures and silhouettes helped establish the brand’s unconventional approach. Read the review to see where its interest in opposing ideas began.

That conversation became more personal in my post  POET-LAB AW26: Inside The Lab At LFW, which explored femininity, self-definition and the confidence to occupy space. Revisit the feature to see how those themes developed before Iaciofano turned his attention to memory and heritage for SS27.

Albania as the Starting Point

The collection “REMEMBER” draws its emotional inspiration from Elton Ilirjani, its muse, who was born in Albania. Ilirjani’s relationship with the country provided Iaciofano with a personal perspective for the collection.

Albania’s industrial architecture served as the primary visual reference, with its concrete buildings and geometric structures shaping the garments’ shoulder shapes, sleeve volumes, and asymmetric lines. This design approach underscores the collection’s connection to Albanian heritage and architectural inspiration.

The colour palette is intentionally restrained, keeping the focus on proportion, texture, and construction. Predominant colours include black, tan, and silver, with a surprising pop of hot pink tulle that adds an unexpected burst of colour.

POET-LAB also used repurposed deadstock fabrics. In a collection about memory and what we choose to retain, using existing material to make something new felt relevant, not performative.

My Vintage & Sustainable Fashion edit explores pre-loved style, conscious shopping and ways to build a more considered wardrobe. Continue there if you are interested in fashion that gives existing clothes and materials a longer life.

An Industrial Setting in Bethnal Green

The fashion show took place in Proposition’s enchanting open-air courtyard, nestled in the vibrant Bethnal Green neighbourhood. The venue’s weathered brick walls and exposed concrete elements created a striking, raw industrial aesthetic that served as the ideal backdrop for the collection.

Guests sat close to the runway, enhancing connection and engagement throughout the event. The brickwork and concrete structures echoed the unique qualities of Albanian architecture, enriching the narrative behind the garments showcased.

The atmosphere was charged with intimacy and creativity, capturing the true essence of East London’s artistic spirit. Unlike many mainstream fashion shows, this event prioritised innovation and craftsmanship over celebrity attendance. The audience brought together a diverse mix of fashion editors, creative professionals, content creators, and dedicated fans of the label, creating a palpable sense of community and shared passion for fashion artistry.

The Silver Looks

A full-length silver gown stood out as one of the collection’s best looks. Thick fringe added volume at the shoulders and flowed down the body, while black platform boots added weight, which worked well against the worn brick walls of the courtyard. It captured the industrial reference without turning it into a costume.

Another look featured silver fringe over a black cropped top and a sheer mesh skirt. The shiny pieces were placed unevenly, giving the outfit a pieced-together feel that matched the collection’s use of repurposed fabrics.

In another outfit, a simple silver shift dress finished with hot-pink tulle peeking out from the hem. This small detail kept the metallic theme from feeling too serious.

Lace, Bows and Visible Construction

One of my favourite looks was a sheer black dress covered in white bows. The bows were set at different angles instead of lined up neatly, and loose black strips added movement.

The styling kept the dress from looking too sweet. Slicked-back hair, pointed shoes, and sheer black fabric gave it a sharper edge.

A black lace outfit gave another strong contrast. Delicate lace was layered under a heavier piece with big sleeves and feathered cuffs. This mix made the look stand out without losing its sensual feel.

Visible seams and unfinished-looking edges appeared throughout the collection. Instead of concealing the work behind each garment, POET-LAB made construction part of the design. It suited a collection concerned with what sits beneath the surface.

I explore this balance between experimentation and wearability at Fashion Trends & Designer Collections. Visit the edit for more runway reviews and a closer look at the designer ideas likely to influence everyday fashion.

The Knitwear Look I Would Wear

The chunky tan knit worn over a black skirt was the easiest look to imagine beyond the runway.

The oversized knit slipped away from one shoulder, revealing white ruffled sleeves underneath. A fitted black skirt created a cleaner line before flaring towards the hem.

The oversized knit slipping off one shoulder and pairing it with a fitted skirt is a look I’d adapt, showing how to incorporate dramatic proportions into everyday style for a personal touch.

My Personal Style Inspiration hub helps you turn runway ideas into outfits that fit your own style and life. Check it out for more wearable tips that don’t mean copying a full designer look.

POET-LAB SS27 had a clear visual identity, a personal link to Albania, and enough contrast to keep things interesting.

Not every look was meant for daily wear, and that’s okay. The main ideas stood out: oversized shapes, visible construction, sheer layers, metallic textures, and the boldness to mix different elements in one outfit.

REMEMBER was at its best when concept and construction came together. The metallic pieces echoed Albania’s industrial landscape, while lace, bows, knitwear, and tulle kept the collection from feeling too heavy.

POET-LAB does oversized tailoring well, but focusing on memory added emotional depth. Casting people of all ages and using genderless shapes also supported the brand’s message and felt true to the clothes.

For everyday style, the best lesson is how Iaciofano uses contrast. Try pairing an oversized knit with a fitted skirt, layering lace under sharp tailoring, or adding a metallic piece to brighten up a simple black outfit.

REMEMBER looked to the past without getting stuck in nostalgia. It used personal history as a starting point and pushed the conversation forward.

Which look caught your eye, and would you try any of these ideas in your own style? Leave a comment below and share your thoughts on the POET-LAB SS27 collection.

Photography: Marcus Hartelt for London Fashion Week.